Puttering in the Study

Rick Steves' Athens & the Mnisikleous "Restaurant Steps"

As good our our Rick Steves book was in Istanbul, in Athens it gave us new places to look forward to every night for dinner.  While the walks made interesting reading, we'd already seen every museum but the Byzantine on prior trips, and we knocked it out the first afternoon we were there.

We were staying in the Plaka area, so everything was walking distance, and the two best places, he counseled were on the Mnisikleous street "restaurant steps" a sidewalk that was inclined steeply upwards towards the Acropolis.  It was just a few blocks away, so after having dinner the first night at our old favorite, Hermion near Cathdral Square (where we always had lunch) we tried what looked like the two best places our last two nights.

The first night was at Geros Toy Moria (I think), not quite at the top by far enough up that you had a nice view down the grapevine-covered arbor overhead from our table on the steps.  Fresh bread, olives, feta, rustic wine, and good Greek cooking - it was magnificent.  They started dancing in the taverns below us around the time we were headed home, and you could tell it was a good spot for night life.  But we're pretty much just there for the food.

But the book was definite that the best experience was at a restaurant that is almost concealed at the top of the steps, and that is Xenios Zeus.  I got a 500 ml terracotta jug of cheap wine, we got the #1 (or was it #2) plates, which consisted of multiple appetizers and sauces, the best grilled bread I've ever had in my life, and again, I can't remember the specific foot, but probably lamb or kebabs or some plain and lightly seasoned.  And then watched the sun setting over Athens to the north with our table pushed up against the trees at the base of the rock of the Acropolis.  The owners sat and visited with patrons while we were there, and it was - as the book said - obviously a family-run joint.

This night-time photo isn't from our trip, but the table in the foreground was ours.

So I can't recommend the Mnisikleous resturant steps enough.  Just be sure you make it to the top at least one night.

Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil - Tom Mueller

I read a review of this book in the NYT recently and it made me paranoid about my olive oil so I picked it up.  It's scandalous what is sold as olive oil - a horrendous amount of what is labeled as "extra virgin" is not, and Mueller makes the point that the real deal is worth getting - it is more flavorful and healthier that the olive-flavored mixed-source oil that's sold as EVOO - but which isn't.

His website provides a handy reference for places where you can get the good stuff - fresh oil that's unadulterated, protected from light, heat and oxygen and bottled individually.  After all, olive oil is actually a fruit juice, and he emphasizes that it doesn't get better with age, and it's life is measured in months, not years.

I went to one of the places he recommends (actually I'm not sure it's listed since I just realized I confused it with the Oil & Vinegar franchise in Allen) Lover's Lane Olive Oil Company in Dallas, where they have a couple dozen oils you can sample, and fell in love with an Australian plain oil (not flavored with herbs, as many they have are).  I went through a bottle in two weeks, and went back Thursday to refill one (saves six dollars a bottle when you refill the bottle) and buy a second.  Ever since I got that first bottle I can't get enough - I am dipping enormous amounts of bread in it, and I dress salads with just oil now because the vinegar competes with the taste.  This stuff is spicy-tasting, and just ridiculously good with some dipping spices and good, hot crusty bread.

Anyway, great book.  Go buy some of the good stuff and see what you're missing.

Blue Bell Butter Crunch ice cream = Dairy Queen Butterfinger Blizzard

Okay, I am not joking.  When you have a jones as bad as I do for Dairy Queen Butterfinger Blizzards, but you live in a town that for some inexplicable reason has no Dairy Queen (it had two when I was growing up - what is the problem, people!) discovering this ice cream ranks right up there with the best things in life.

This ice cream is not the cruel tease of a Sonic Butterfinger Blast (whipped cream?  WTF?), but the full and rich flavor of the real deal.  Granted, the ice cream is not true soft serve, but Blue Bell's vanilla base is the creme de la creme on ice cream to me (I actually do not do flavors in Blue Bell for that reason).

The website says that this is a seasonal flavor, which sucks pretty bad right there, but the same Internet search led me to the existence of BB BC ice cream bars, which may do the job instead.

Anyway, have to report on the important things is life here.

Sagra restaurant - Austin

Had a magnificent dinner last night at this new restaurant in Austin, Sagra enoteca & trattoria.  It's at 1610 San Antonio, just north of the Doubletree I often stay at next to the State Bar building.  The menu is online, but I had this amazing arugula salad with truffle oil and I'm not sure what else, followed by the daily special, which last night was ravioli with three or four chesses and spinach.  Just amazing.  Had my first "Super-Tuscan" wine as well, and really liked it.  Also had the tiramisu and a cappucino to wrap things up, and those were good as well - I couldn't figure out what the slightly bitter stuff at the bottom of the cup the dessert came in was until I realized it was espresso - making this the first tiramisu I've ever had where you actually noticed the espresso (and I don't mean that in a bad way - it set off the rich of the creamy topping).
I highly, highly recommend this place!  I can't wait to get another free night in Austin to go back.

I almost forgot - their cards have a little Italian translation on the back that's helpful for ordering in Italian.  I'm not sure how helpful the translation for "Do you have Shiner Beer" will be, though.  (Seriously, it's on there).